Wind Wiring Diagram

Does anyone have a Wind wiring diagram they could share with me?

So, I'm not the only one who would like to get a look at a wiring diagram.

I'll also await replies with intesect.

Particular interest at present is ... whether it is possible to get a jump onto the Dash Lights circuit without activating all the exterior lights to enable the dash lights to be on as soon as the ignition is energised. Its a weak point with the Wind .. in sun / daylight no idea of speed.
Hope someone has a wiring diagram and if it works I'll share it.

Good idea I do tend to switch sidelights on to get illumination of instruments.

Seeking an ignition linked source for the daytime running lights I fitted, but having no wiring diagram, I finally resorted to tapping into the cigarette lighter wiring. The DRLs being LED have a very low power requirement although I did put in an extra in line fuse just in case. You can just see one of the DRLs on my image. They do show up nicely & look similar to those fitted to some other Renault models so don't look like an afterthought.

Geoff, I wish you would hurry up and sort the dash lights out, you can upgrade mine after you have fitted the uprated headlamp bulbs.

Haha .. Alan but what about the DRLs ?? You will be wanting them next !! My cunning plan was to fit DRLs (If Pitstop can supply the info -- ie what did you use?) and wire the Dash lights and the DRLs into a separate circuit which would power up when the ignition is live. There are a few spare fuse ways in the glove box fuse compartment. No takers on the wiring diagram so far. Someone must have one.

Yes DRL's sound great I bow to your engineering knowledge.

The DRLs came from Halfords & were supplied with double sided sticky tapes for fixing. I was going to drill & screw but so far the adhesive seems strong.

Linking them with dashboard lights would be great once we find out which wire feeds the dashboard lights.

I have a copy of Renault Dialogys manual but so far have failed to find any proper wiring info on it.

My DRLs are Ring Cruise-Lite Ice from Halfords & cost £24.99

My wife is a "member" of My Renault support having bought a new Captur in 2013. 

I used the "live chat" service on that to ask for info re Wind service intervals which they e-mailed me & I passed on to the forum via another thread: Bullyboys 6th year service/cam belt.

Thought I'd push my luck & ask about Wind wiring diagrams & manual.

I was referred to a web site where I can apply for access. I'm going to try it but think I may not be allowed access as I don't work for a VAT registered garage.

Pressed the agent on "live chat" & he has agreed to see if he can send me some wiring info.

If I get lucky I'll let you all know.

Just tried to access Renault InfoTech.

As I suspected it is purely for professionals & access is chargeable by time on line so no go there.

Let's hope that "live chat" man (Abdul) can deliver on some wiring info.

Still keeping on their tail twice via live chat. Am promised something on my e-mail this week.

I'll keep you updated once I've had a chance to study them properly.

Thanks Pittstop. Still interested in this and anything you can share with me. The DRLs are looking great I know Katana AL will want some fitted when he sees them

Renault Customer Service have delivered the goods & I've been sent a zipped file containing many wiring diagrams plus component lists etc.

At present it is frying my brain just unzipping & arranging in my files in some form of logical order!

What seems to happen is that you look up your diagram & then compare the numbers shown for each piece of equipment on the diagram with the numbers on the List of Components to find our what they are. There are also many other lists of connections & other things.

With me so far. I don't think I am!

As far as I can see the only way to share these with others will be via e-mail.

For security reasons I would suggest that anyone wanting a copy of the mail from Renault sets up a disposable e-mail address & puts it on this thread so I can then forward it to you. You can then dispose of that mail address as you please.

That way we can all look at the diagrams & maybe come to a consensus as to which wire to tap into re ignition linked sources & dash light feeds etc.

Going to chill out now & maybe have a really good look tomorrow.

Thanks Pittstop that sounds like good progress. I'm out of the UK currently and not back for a few weeks. I'll get back to you.

Thought I'd have a go at dashboard lights today.

Logic says that an output from the lighting/indicator arm should be the place to start.

Took off cowl & freed unit; so as to more easily access exiting wires with my circuit tester; in the hope that there would be separate feeds from it to dashboard & sidelights. What chance it would be that easy!

Found a white lead that became live when sidelights switched on but no other that did the same. No chance there of simply cutting a feed to the dashboard & linking it to my DRL; ignition linked; wiring

Have to assume that this white lead goes to a relay from which the power is fed, presumably via a fuse, to dashboard & sidelights. Finding the point where the feeds split is the problem. Probably somewhere in the bowels of the dashboard. Maybe behind the fuse box?

The wiring diagrams from Renault have so far been no help in this quest.

Put it all back together & gave up for the day.

Good try Pittstop. My thoughts are same as yours ... to find the split point, provide a separate fused live to the split point and then insert a diode on the leg feeding back to the side lights to stop them coming on when the fused live is live. I have a feeling that you will probably have to remove the dash to get to the feed for the dash lights. Something I'm not too keen to do.

There is a chance that the dashboard lighting is controlled by CAN bus rather than a traditional switched circuit, however whenever I've tried to find out information, I've not had much joy.  It looks like on similar year Twingos and Clios, the dashboard is driven by CAN but the lighting circuits are separate switched.   

Id suspect the main headlights are CAN controlled too, to allow the auto-on/off function to work, and possibly the turn indicators, but the rest could be switched.

I would think that at the least the car can be programmed for the sidelights to come on with the engine starting, which would also (probably) light the dash.

Low teck option is to cover the light sensor with a bit of sticky tape and the lights will always come on when you start the car.

Please don't shoot the messenger but this might make sense to you people that understand cars

Barbs.

Yes: gaffer tape is definitely an option. It would bring on dipped headlights as well as sides & dashboard.

It would work well in New Zealand where they recommend dip beams at all times.

Fascinating place to drive as speed limits are low & enforcement is strong. My brother in law; who lives there; kept warning me to slow down in our hire car whilst we were there.

He hates "motorways"! By our standards they were rural dual carriageways. It's another world over there.

Sandancer wrote:... to find the split point, provide a separate fused live to the split point and then insert a diode on the leg feeding back to the side lights to stop them coming on when the fused live is live.

I'll be making this bridge on the Boxster soon, to try and make the side lights come on with the ignition.  Luckily there's a hack already worked out for fog lamps on another model (shorting with a diode on the lighting switch), so I'm hoping that I can adapt this to utilise the front side lights which are LEDs.

Used a similar ploy on my MGTF160; as the fog lights were pretty ineffective; but much cruder than diodes etc. 

Changed fog light bulbs to LEDs; cut positive feed to fog light switch; connected an ignition linked supply from the ignition switch.

That way if the fog light switch was left  on I got DRLs when switching on ignition.

But could switch DRLs off if working on car with ignition on or attending M0T where engine is left running.

Much easier than on the Wind as MGTF wiring is far less sophisticated & much easier to "bodge"!

Chatting to my daughter's partner; who is a technician at a motor dealership; re dashboard lights linked to ignition.

His advice was don't look at the feeder look at the consumer.

Good advice.

So don't look at the outputs from the light switch to the sidelights but do look at the multiplug into the back of the instrument panel for the feed to the dashboard lights.

I planned to take off the cowl over the panel & check all the inputs with a multimeter. ie: what is live with the ignition off but the sidelight switch on? The only input wire that should be live must surely be the input to the dashboard lights from the sidelight circuit. Then: Just need to cut that & join it to an ignition linked source such as the power/cigarette lighter socket.

Only one problem: I've covered my dashboard, including the cowl; with self adhesive felt to eliminate dangerous inner screen reflections & I'm reluctant; at this stage; to strip it all off to access the multiplug .

Is anyone else out there; who can more easily get at the dashboard feeder multiplug; willing to try this out with a multimeter & advise which incoming lead is the live one?

If it works then I'd readily to strip off my anti reflection cover & do it myself before restoring the anti reflective felt.

Hope this leads to a move towards curing this problem.

Yes, I agree with that.
Any idea how you get the cowl off??

Hi Sandancer,

What we would call a cowl Renault call a Visor which is in two parts: front & rear.

I have attached an image taken from Dialogys re stripping dashboard.

The instructions that go with it are:

First (GENTLY!) lever off Item 1 (Front Visor) which is held in by the lugs on it's underside. Then undo items 2 (Rear Visor Bolts) Then lift off Item 3 (Rear Visor).

At this point I believe that it should be possible to access the multiplug input to the Instrument Panel.

Have fun!!

pittstop

Has anyone had a go at this yet?

Hi Pittstop.
No not done it yet but I am intending to.
I can't see the image you attached and it may be useful.
Re the front visor ... does this simply lever up. I'm a bit concerned that I might snap the lugs. I did try removing it but it didn't seem to want to move.
Thanks
Sandancer

In theory the "front visor" ie the one furthest from the steering wheel should lever up. Then two screws have to be removed to take off the "rear visor" the clear plastic bit nearest the steering wheel.

Re viewing the diagram I posted I can see it clearly on the forum but, that said, I do have a desktop with a 21inch monitor.

Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs but an alternative is to "copy & paste" it then print it.

Do a right mouse click on the diagram on the forum, select copy, open a blank word document & click on it to set a cursor, then transfer to the blank Word document via CTRL-V. Once transferred the image can be enlarged by dragging one corner

Brilliant... got it. Thanks very much.
I'll let you know if I make any progress.

Sandancer,

Did you get anywhere with this. Having removed the anti reflection felt from my screen (see thread re reflections) I thought I'd give removing the instrument panel covers a go. Very difficult to get at or to find anything to slide down the gap to act as a lever. Then so worried that levering would scratch or break something I wimped out & gave up.

Despite having daytime running lights I may just resort to switching on the sidelights if I can't see the speedo.

Re important info: my Tom Tom tells me how fast I'm going, even warning me if I'm over the limit, & I've set the in car display to show how many miles I have left in the tank.

Don't like to admit defeat but sometimes discretion is the better part of valour!!

Hi Pittstop
a few weeks ago I had an attempt. Thanks to the diagram I managed to get right into the dash unit and removed it. The dash unit itself has a multipin plug into which everything is wired. (about 16 wires)
So what I did next was to take the wiring loom which is attached to the plug and look for 12 volts on any of the wires whilst the lights were on and 0 volts when the lights were off. Simples!! or so I thought !!
However, the result was that I could find no circumstances that fitted that scenario. There was 12v on some wires but did not change with lights on / off. There was also a number of connections with a lower voltage on the wire. Which most probably are the dash light feeds.
My conclusion is that the dash lights must be very low voltage (maybe little LEDs') and fed from a voltage converter (somewhere!!)
Therefore the plan to feed the dash lights from a fresh 12v permanent ignition fed supply so they are on when ever the engine is running has unfortunately failed and its 'back to the drawing board'.
If I'm wrong about this or someone knows more, please let me know.