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Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

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Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by Araf on Sat 6 Jun 2015 - 20:19

Changing the rear brakes on a Renault Wind.

Put the car in gear, and release the handbrake.  Jack the car and remove the wheel.  If you’re happy doing this, then you can easily change your own discs and pads.  You may want to put an axle stand under the car for extra safety.
Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet.


Undo the two bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier.  You’ll need a 15mm open end spanner, and a 13mm spanner for the rear bolt head.


Lift the caliper free of the carrier, and use a wind-back tool to push the piston back into the caliper.  Both calipers use a standard thread (right hand) wind back tool.  Sorry, I forgot to get a picture of this part.


Remove the pads from the carrier.  This is as far as you need to dismantle if you are just replacing pads, however you may want to clean the carrier, and therefore follow the next step too.


Then remove the carrier from the bottom of the suspension leg.  Two 18mm bolts here, and they will be a little tight, so you may need a breaker bar to start them off.


To remove the disc, you need to remove the centre cap/dust seal.  Hammer and screwdriver work well, though I’m sure you can get a special tool for it.


Underneath is a 30mm nyloc nut.  Remove this, and in my case, the disc with bearing fell off.  If it won’t come off easily, then use a hub puller to remove the disc squarely.


Clean around the rear of the stub axle, taking care not to disturb the ABS sensor. Grease the stub axle and fit the new disc, and torque up a new nyloc nut to 175nm, before refitting the dust seal.


[Pad change only people should start reading again]Wire brush the caliper carrier to clean off old brake dust and refit to the bottom of the suspension leg.  Then install the new pads, and replace the caliper.  Some pad sets will have new bolts for this, with thread lock on them.


Refit the wheel, and lower the car.  Now check the brake fluid level, and then go and do the other side.  Once both are done, refit the brake fluid cap, start the car, pump the brakes, and operate the hand brake 3-4 times after which the efficiency should come back.

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Re: Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by Araf on Sat 6 Jun 2015 - 21:30

This is good to watch, before you start.


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Re: Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by colin565 on Sat 15 Aug 2015 - 21:55

Nice writeup Araf  Wink

The following is a generic statement about all discs on cars.....

What I would add if you are not replacing the old disc, is to clean the flaky rusty parts off, that are around the thickness perimeter of the disk. (see picture six above for the best view of the rusty perimeter).

I tend to use a big flat screwdriver to get the big rusty flakes off, while rotating the disk by hand, and then use a rectangular emery pad and rotate the disk till all rusty bits are off and it is reasonably clean.

Be careful not to damage the front facia of the disk surface while using screwdriver.

SAFETY: Wear a mask and especially goggles when doing this to protect your eyes. Also a glove for rotating the disc.

Now the reason for this is not obvious, but it prevents flaky bits falling off the disk and jamb at the back of the splash guard, creating noise. 

Also it stops noises of pad/pad houlder/disk interaction by the sticking out flaky bits, if the disc perimeter is clean and there is no flaky bits.
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Re: Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by Bandit197 on Tue 12 Jun 2018 - 23:25

I did this today (pads only, not discs).

Things I learned.

1. You can do this without the rewind tool, but I wouldn't advise it. Browsing tells me that rewind tool sets are available for less than £20. Being creative with a clamp and a set of narrow nose pliers will get you there in the end, but you have to clamp, remove clamp, apply a number of turns with pliers, repeat many times. I spent 1.5 to 2 hours winding calipers back. So spend £20 and buy the tool!

2. Be specific when asking the chap changing your tyres to report back on the state of the brakes. I'd assumed all brakes were checked recently when I asked this and was getting front tyres. Evidently not.

3. A quick check of the visible pad through the alloys won't tell you anything about the state of the pad on the other side of the disk. An intermitant grinding noise will.

Ah well, job done, and it's much better now. :-)
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Re: Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by Bandit197 on Tue 12 Jun 2018 - 23:29

Oh, where are my manners!

Big thank you to @Araf for the guide above, and the others on the forum.

Note to @colin565 , you are right, always take a little time to clear excess rust from the disc. I used the end of a big file, with the file handle wedged into the floor, and rotated the disc multiple times by hand. Removed all excess rust build up that could come into contact with pads.
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Re: Changing rear brake discs and/or pads

Post by donjack on Wed 13 Jun 2018 - 10:43

Thanks Araf, (Colin and Bandit too!) very informative.
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